Nothing Toulouse....
We had spent some time in Southern France back in the hey day of living in the UK (memories of a village 'Gourmand Festival' while staying at our flat mate Jess' Dad's place, and gawking at the helipads on the boats of visiting millionaires in Antibes on a weekend away. Loved Augues-Mortes and Aix en Provence). So rather than join the summer throngs at the 'beach' we headed West to the La Ville Rose, Toulouse.
We didn't know a lot about Toulouse but were attracted by the tourist guide description - 'rich food, good wine and slow-living'. Sounded like our kind of place. Then, reading through some information left by our Airbnb host we noted a different point of view: 'there is much more to Toulouse than all night drinking and drugs'. Ah, a University town. Should be entertaining.
Enjoying sunset on the stunning pink stone of the Capitole building, when suddenly a cowd of about 100 people arrives on roller blades sporting water pistols. They took off and we never did see the result.
We're really hitting our stride in holiday mode now... we spent our first day with a lazy afternoon at an outdoor cafe in a leafy square enjoying a long French lunch (Restaurant Emile, thanks Conde Nast Travel!), then wandered the winding cobblestone streets of the old quarter browsing the shops while checking out the occasional tourist site.
Yep, some of that food we read about. Cheese, glorious cheese!
The men of Toulouse take a much needed mid-morning beer break, cleverly situated in the covered market so they can wait while their wives shop.
The Gothic Jacobian Church was a highlight. From the outside it looks quite unassuming but as you walk in it is striking, as you realise it has more windows than wall which results in an amazingly light space. The photos cannot even start to do it justice. It is the first church of the Dominicans and is celebrating its 800th anniversary this year. After the French revolution it was repurposed as a military barracks (a common theme for many of the churches around France) during which time all the stained glass windows were destroyed. Restoration back to the original church didn't start again until 1920 and took 52 years which means that the stained glass windows are very modern and bright. Stunning.
On our last day in Toulouse we had planned to hit some other sights but after a run along the canal and a cycle by the river, stopping to listen to a jazz four-piece playing on a park by the river, we decided just to mosey on to dinner at a riverside bistro for a three course dinner of French goodness (Brasserie des Beaux-Arts, thanks Marj and Roy for the tip). Wanting to try the local fare, Michelle managed to put back a large serve of Toulouse sausage (not a euphemism) much to Al's dismay as he'd assumed he'd get some after scoffing his serve of lobster. Guess we're getting in to the Toulouse vibe of good food and slow living. Just as well the next stop is some hiking in the mountains to work off some of this French food and wine. Les Pyrenees - on y va!